Mini Moon on the North Fork
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We landed on Greenport, Long Island, located on the North Fork and about 2.5 hours from NYC. It’s sleepier than it’s neighboring Hamptons, but what the North Fork lacks in crowds and fancy cars, it makes up for in charm.
We knew we wanted to walk most places but wake up and see water, so we booked The Harborfront Inn right by the marina and Shelter Island ferry. Our room was cosy, with a welcome bottle of RGNY Rosé and a balcony looking out to the harbor.
Being incredibly hungover, tired, and starving from the wedding day before, we just popped over to PORT Waterfront Bar & Grill for a bite to each. There was live music piping over from Crabby Jerry’s down the street, and we sat down to take it all in without a crowd.
While the trip was more wine-centered, I love trying local beers so I had the Greenport Brewing Leaf Pile with a cinnamon sugar rim that was really bringing me back to life, while Michael had a local red, the Macari Sette. I ordered a lobster roll and Michael got the lobster grilled cheese. Both home runs, and I’m seriously contemplating driving out there right now to go get another. It was so sinfully delicious.
The next morning we got up early to play 18 at Island’s End Golf Club. It was cold, rainy, windy, and so much fun. We didn’t play well, I think both still hungover, but when you turn to play 16 it was all worth it!
Right down the road from Island’s End on our way back to the hotel was Kontokosta Winery. It’s set in a gorgeous renovated barn with a large lawn that leads out to the Long Island Sound. Their COVID regulations didn’t allow for tastings so picked out the 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a little too earthy for me, but we reveled in the moment.
That night after a dinner snafu we walked around before we decided to eat at Noah’s, which was the best place we ate the entire trip. The staff was so friendly and very conscious of COVID precautions. The menus are seasonal and feature local and regional dishes. I had the most delicate New England Clam Chowder and an impeccable Duck Confit. Truthfully I wanted to go nowhere else and just keep working my way down this menu – to be continued.
The next day was strictly for wine so we knew we needed a good base for the day. We landed on Southold Fish Market and my god, are we glad we did. Just as we got there the rain clouds floated away and the sun started to shine. The staff was so friendly and outgoing, guiding us with what to order and then went out and dried picnic tables for us! We got a couple of beers, soup, and a flounder sandwich to share. I had their soup du jour which was a spicy shrimp corn chowder that was no joke, life changing.
The first winery on the agenda for the day was Lieb Cellars, the sister winery to Bridge Lane. We were delightfully greeting with sparkling wine and each had a tasting flight, for me the Estate Flight and Michael had the Red Flight. Alice, who I had been in contact with for Bridge Lane set us up with Cara who was so wonderful in taking care of us.
After our tasting we purchased a few bottles, and an extra glass each to take for a stroll through the vineyard as they were finishing the harvest. It is such an inviting atmosphere and everyone on the team is so friendly, I would highly recommend visiting if you’re in the area.
From Lieb Cellars, we went over to Bedell Cellars, which is a sustainable wine estate nearby. I was intrigued by their white flight which had a sparkling, 2019 Viognier, and a 2019 Albarino, while Michael mixed & matched a flight of reds including their 2017 Cabernet Franc, 2015 Taste Red, and the 2014 Musée. There wasn’t a single wine we didn’t love, and the 2014 Musée blew us away.
The next stop for us on the North Fork Wine Trail was Croteaux Vineyards. There was only one other couple at Croteaux, which was nice so we could all have plenty of space to ourselves. We were seated in the little barn section filled with heaters and kitschy rosé decor. The only serve rosé wines, inspired by life in Provence. I could have sat there all day drinking the wines, but with more ground to cover, I enjoyed a flight and grabbed a few bottles to go.
As we were leaving they suggested we check out their sister winery, Shinn Estate. With no real plan for the day we thanked them and headed to Shinn. It’s gorgeous and massive, with a small guest house on the property that I would love to go back to. I had the Wild Boar Doe while Michael had their Brandy, which was a little stronger than he could handle that day.
On our way home the last day we stopped for lunch at The Halyard, in the Sound View. It’s a sister hotel to The Harborfront Inn that we stayed at and set right on the Long Island Sound. We got there right about opening time and picked a seat looking out to the water, which was super rocky from the storm we were having.
Death & Co was on residency at the hotel serving up some of their spectacular cocktails that I usually enjoy in the city. I had another Clam Chowder which was so warming and welcoming on the cold, rainy day. For our mains, I went with the fish tacos and Michael had the Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras with Hamachi Sashimi. Yes, that was as delectable as it sounds.
We were so sad to leave, but I think more so dreading the drive back to reality. Since our Mini Moon we’ve spent countless time looking at real estate out East (in our dreams), and have a trip back planned for the Spring.
Until next time, North Fork!